The Land of the Thunder Dragon. That’s a pretty bloody awesome tag line for any country. It’s also the land where the government constitutionally operates to maximise Gross National Happiness. Before coming to Bhutan, we had a feeling we’d like it.
However, it started off a bit rocky. We arrived at Kathmandu airport (another hairy, life-sapping lung-choking taxi ride), and went to check in for our flight to Paro, Bhutan. Handing over our passports, we were asked for our visas. We don’t have visas. While we knew we had been granted them, as we’d provided details, our travel agent had failed to send us a copy of these. The check in desk advised that without visas, we can’t board the flight. Shit.
At that exact moment, a woman was checking in at the desk right next to us and said: “I think you’re on the same trip as me, with Intrepid? I’ve got a copy of the group visa”. Jodie, one of 8 people on our trip, and the only other person who, by complete serendipity, happened to be travelling to Bhutan from Kathmandu, and checking in for her flight at the exact same time as us, was able to provide our visa and get us on the plane. We love Jodie. Jodie is amazing.
Our flight took off 45 minutes early, because everyone was there! We flew with Royal Bhutan Airways, the only airline allowed to fly into Bhutan. It was an exceptional flight. It was a clear day and as we ascended, the whole panorama of the Himalayas opened up to our left. Through continued good fortune I had a window seat and watched as we flew past towering peak after towering peak.
Descending to land at Paro, we’d been advised that it was an interesting approach. Paro is in a valley, surrounded by 18,000ft peaks, and to land here, pilots must have specialised training and certification. Only 17 pilots worldwide have this certification. The King of Bhutan’s brother in law is one of them. The runway is completely obscured from the pilot’s view until the last minute, as the plane swoops between the mountains, banking at 45º angles before dropping rapidly onto the short 6,500 ft runway.
The reception in Bhutan is without question the best we’ve ever had in any airport. The airport buildings are stunning; decorated delicate woodwork roofs hang over huge pictures of the beautiful king and queen of Bhutan to welcome us, as we walk into the customs hall.
With such restricted visitor numbers to Bhutan (200,000 per year, and only 50% of those tourists), customs took seconds and was an extraordinarily friendly affair. We met our guide (you can’t travel without one in Bhutan), and two other members of the group at the airport and made our way an hour or so’s drive to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital.
Travels with Sklaroffs 